Club Equipment Guidelines

This page lists Club Equipment with links to precautions and procedures when using the equipment.

Before using any club equipment click on the item in the list below and read the precautions and procedures, also read the user manual to familiarize yourself with the use of that particular type of equipment. If in doubt, ASK.

Wheel guard doors must be closed before turning on the machine.
The blade must be sharp and properly adjusted, before turning on the machine.
Adjust the upper guide assembly so it is 5mm above the work.
Do not allow observers to watch beside the saw — this is where a broken blade is likely to exit. Allow the saw to reach full speed before feeding the work.
The stock must be held flat on the table.
Feed the saw only as fast as the teeth can easily remove the sawdust from the kerf in the wood. Use push sticks to feed the wood – especially when cutting small items.
Plan saw cuts to avoid backing out of curves whenever possible.
Make turns carefully and do not cut radii so small that the blade is twisted.
Stop the machine before backing out of a long, curved cut or cut relief cuts to release waste wood; and use a wedge to open up the blade kerf before backing out the blade.
Round stock should not be cut unless mounted securely in a VEE jig or hand screw.
If you hear a clicking noise, turn off the machine at once. This indicates a crack in the blade. If the blade breaks, shut off the power and move away from the machine until both wheels stop.
Turn off the machine as soon as you have finished your work. If the machine has a brake, apply it smoothly. Do not leave the machine until it has stopped running.
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Know and follow the general safety rules for operating power tools.
Make all adjustments while the machine is turned off.
Never reach across the path of the blade. When the machine is running, always keep your
hands at least 6 inches (150 mm) from the blade.
Keep the safety guard in position at all times.
Wait until the blade is running full speed to start a cut.
Never stand in line with the blade. lf you push the blade with your right hand, stand to the
left. If you push the blade with your left hand, stand to the right.
Use one hand to push the saw through the stock. Use the other hand to hold the stock
against the fence. Keep both hands away from the cutting line.
Cut only one piece of wood at a time.
Feed the blade slowly
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Check the speed setting to see that it is correct for your work. Holes over 13 mm (1/2 in.) should be bored at the lowest speed.
Use only an approved type of bit. Bits with feed screws or those with excessive length should not be used.
Mount the bit securely to the full depth of the chuck and in the centre. Remove the key immediately.
Position the table and adjust the feed stroke so there is no chance of the bit hitting the table.
The work should be placed on a wood pad when the holes are drilled all the way through.
Work that will be held by hand should be centre punched.
Small or irregular shaped pieces must be clamped to the table or held in a special fixture.
Feed the bit smoothly into the work. When the hole is deep, withdraw the drill frequently to clear the shavings and cool the bit.
When using special clamping setups, a hole saw or fly cutter; have your Mentor or Session Leader inspect it before turning it on.
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Know and follow the general safety rules for operating power tools.
Remove all loose knots from the stock before sanding.
Do not sand stock shorter than the distance between the centres of the in-feed and out-feed
rolls. This is usually about 12 inches (300 mm), or more.
Never stand directly behind a board being surfaced. The stock could kick back and cause
an injury.
Never look into the surfacer while the cutter-head is rotating.
Make sure one face is flat before you surface a board. NOTE; USE A HAND PLANE OR
Place the flat face against the sander table.
Locate the highest point of the piece under the FIRST drum and raise the table until the
drum just contacts the abrasive belt. Set the digital height gauge at zero.
If a board does not feed through the sander, turn off the power. Wait until the cutter-head
stops completely. Then lower the table and remove the board.
Keep your hands away from the areas around the feed rolls. You could easily pinch your
fingers in these areas.
Feed the stock with the grain. Otherwise, the stock can chip and break. The pieces can
then be thrown from the sander.
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Check for loose clothing and hair before starting.
Ensure that the material to be ground is well secured and fully supported during grinding.
Ensure all guards are in place before switching on.
Ensure that eye shields are clean and are in place to protect the eyes. Wear safety goggles
(fully enclosed — diver style).
Wear protective clothing and ear protection.
Ensure that the wheels are not damaged or cracked and are properly secured before switching on.
Remove loose foreign objects from around the grinder before starting.
Stand clear of the grinding wheel disk planes whilst the wheels are spinning up to full speed.
If necessary, grade the wheel prior to grinding.
Do not leave a running grinder unattended.
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Be certain the blade is properly installed. It should be in a vertical position with the teeth
pointing up.
Roll the machine over by hand to see if there is clearance for the blade, and if the tension
sleeve has been properly set.
Keep the hold-down adjusted so the work will not be raised off the table.
When the saw is running, do not permit your fingers to get directly in line with the blade. The
work can usually be held on either side of the cutting line.
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Make Adjustments with the power “OFF” and disconnected.
Ensure that the drill bit runs clear of the chisel (1.5 – 2 mm).
Ensure the drill, and the chisel, is sharp before setting-up.
Put tools away after setting-up the chisel.
Place a sacrifice piece below a “through” mortise hole to protect the cross table.
Use the machine’s clamps to secure the piece. DO NOT use hands or large F or G clamps.
Set the limit stops before starting. Check after the first hole.
Ensure the drill bit moves freely before switching ON.
Keep hands away from the table whilst the machine is operating.
Keep the area clean and neat during operation.
Ensure that the chisel cuts on four sides (holes) or on two sides (shorts between holes).
Do not use excessive force to lower the chisel (sharpen the chisel).
Clear the chips from the chisel frequently (every 6 mm of depth).
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There are many types of portable hand-held nail guns. They are powered by either:
– electromagnetism
– compressed air-pneumatic
– highly flammable gases—such as butane or propane
– powder actuated—requiring an explosive charge.
Since their introduction, the compressed air/pneumatic type nail gun has become the most
commonly used form of nail gun.
Use totally enclosed eye protection when operating a nail gun.
Use a leather apron when operating a nail gun.
Operators are responsible for the safe operation of Nail Guns.
Keep your finger off the trigger.
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Be sure you have the Mentor or Session Leader’s approval to operate the machine.
Before turning on the machine, make adjustments for depth of cut and position of fence.
Do not adjust out-feed tables or remove guard without the Mentor or Session Leader’s approval.
The maximum cut forjointing an edge is 3 mm (1/8 in.); OR, for a flat surface 1.5 mm (1/16in.).
Stock must be at least 9 mm (3/8 in.) thick, unless a special feather board is used.
Feed the work so the cutters (knives) will cut “with the grain.” Use only new seasoned stock that is free of knots, splits, and checks.
Keep your hands away from the cutter-head even though the guard is in.
Position. Maintain at least a 100 mm (4 in) margin of safety.
Use a push block when planning a flat surface. Do not plane end grain unless the board is at least 300 mm (12 in.) wide.
The planer/jointer cutters/knives must be sharp. Dull cutters/knives will vibrate the stock and may cause a kickback.
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Stock must be supported in such a way that the kerf will not close and bind the blade during
the cut or at the end of the cut.
Thin materials should be supported on benches. Small pieces should be clamped in a vice
or onto a bench top or sawhorse.
Be careful not to cut into the bench, sawhorse, or other supporting devices.
Adjust the depth of cut to the thickness of the stock, and add about 1/8 in.
Check the base and angle adjustment to be sure they are tight. Plug in the cord to a
grounded outlet and be sure it will not become fouled in the work.
Always place the saw base on the stock, with the blade clear, before turning on the switch.
During the cut, stand to one side of the cutting line.
Large saws will have two handles. Keep both hands on them during the cutting operation.
Small saws should also be guided with both hands when possible.
Always unplug the machine to change blades or make major adjustments.
Always use a sharp blade with plenty of set.
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Know and follow the general safety rules for operating power tools.
Disconnect the power before changing router bits.
Clamp router bits securely in the chuck. At least 1/2 inch (12 mm) of the shank should be
Make sure the router switch is in the off position before connecting the power.
Do not make any router cuts unless the stock is securely clamped. The router can throw
loose stock with great force.
Before you start cutting, make sure nothing is in the router’s path.
Hold the router tightly when starting the motor.
Always feed the router against the rotation of the bit. If you feed with the rotation the bit can
dig into the stock. This can cause the router to kick back or throw the stock.
After finishing a cut, wait for the router to completely stop. Then lay the router down. The bit
should point away from you.
Examine the stock carefully before cutting to make sure it is free of defects. Never cut
through a loose knot or stock that is cracked or split.
Use all guards, jigs, and clamping devices whenever possible.
Always use a depth collar when routing irregular work. Put a guide pin in the table to start
the cutting.
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Select the correct drill or bit. Mount it securely to the full depth of the chuck.
Either clamp a scrap piece under work to prevent splintering the underside, or drill from both
Stock to be drilled must be held in a stationary position so it cannot be moved during the
Connect the drill to a properly grounded outlet.
Turn on the switch for a moment to see if the bit is properly cantered and running true.
With the switch off, place the point of the bit in the punched layout hole.
Hold the drill firmly in one or both hands and at the correct drilling angle.
Turn on the switch and feed the drill into the work. The pressure required will vary with the
size of the drill and the kind of wood.
During the operation, keep the drill aligned with the direction of the hole.
When drilling deep holes, especially with a twist drill, withdraw the drill several times to clear
the shavings.
Follow the same precautions and procedures as when drilling holes with the drill press.
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Whenever possible, install the cutter so the bottom of the stock is shaped.
In this way the stock will cover most of the cutter and act as a guard.
Make sure the cutter is locked securely to the spindle.
Always position the left fence so that it will support the work that has passed the cutters.
Adjust the spindle for correct height and then lock in position. Rotate the spindle by hand to
make sure it clears all guards, fences, etc.
Check the direction of rotation by snapping the switch on and off; watch as the cutters come
shapers. have a reversing switch so that the spindle can be rotated either clockwise or
counter clockwise.
Examine the stock carefully before cutting to make sure it is free of defects. Never cut
through a loose knot or stock that is cracked or split.
Hold the stock down and against the fence with the hands on top of the material, yet out of
range of the cutters.
Use all guards, jigs, and clamping devices whenever possible.
Always use a depth collar when shaping irregular work. Put a guide pin in the table to start
the cutting.
Do not set spring hold-down clips too tightly against the work. Use just enough tension to
hold the work against the fence.
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Stock must be held firmly on the table and against the fence for all crosscutting operations.
The ends of long boards must be supported level with the table.
Before turning on the motor be certain that all clamps and locking devices are tight and the
depth of cut is correct.
Keep the guard and anti-kickback device in position.
When sawing, allow the blade to run up to speed before beginning the cut.
Use a feed which allows the blade to spin without stalling.
Do not remove them without your Mentor or Session Leader’s permission.
Always return the saw to the rear of the table after completing a crosscut or mitre cut.
Never remove stock from the table until the saw has been returned.
Maintain a 6 in. margin of safety.
Shut off the motor, wait for the blade to stop and disconnect power before making any
Be sure the blade is stopped before you leave the machine.
Keep the table clean and free of dust, sawdust, wood scraps, tools and excessive amounts
of sawdust.
Secure approval from your Mentor or Session Leader before making ripping cuts or other
special setups.
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Make certain the saw is properly grounded through the electrical cord.
Select the correct blade for your work and be sure it is properly mounted.
Disconnect the saw to change blades or make adjustments.
Place the base of the saw firmly on the stock before starting the cut.
Turn on the motor before the blade contacts the work.
Do not attempt to cut curves so sharp that the blade will be twisted. Follow procedures described for band saw operation.
Make certain the work is well supported. Do not cut into sawhorses or other supports.
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Be certain the belt, spindle or disc is correctly mounted. The belt must track in the centre of the drums and platen. Do not operate the disc sander if the abrasive paper is loose.The spindle on the spindle sander must only be hand tightened.
Check the guards and table adjustments to see that they are in the correct position and locked securely in place.
Use the table, fence, and other guides to control the position of the work, whenever possible.
Small or irregular-shaped pieces should be held in a hand clamp, or a special jig or fixture.
When sanding the end grain of narrow pieces on the belt sander, always support the work against the table.
Sand only on the side of the disc sander that is moving toward the table. Move work along this surface so it will not burn.
Always use a pad or push block when sanding thin pieces on the belt sander.
Do not use power sanders to form and shape parts when the operations could be better performed on other machines.
Sand only clean new wood. Do not sand work that has excess glue or finish on the surface.
These materials will load and foul the abrasive.
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Know and follow the general safety rules for operating power tools.
Make all setups and adjustments with the power off.
Use the correct blade for the stock (thickness) and curve (sharpness) being cut.
Never try to turn a small radius with a wide blade. The radius should not be more than three
times the blade width.
Clamp the blade securely in both chucks with the teeth pointing down.
Adjust the guides so they properly support the blade.
Adjust the hold down so that it applies light pressure to the stock.
Rotate the motor by hand to check that all adjustments have been made properly.
Plan cuts to avoid backing out of curves.
Do not force the work into the blade. This can cause the blade to bend the break.
Keep your fingers out of line with the saw.
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Be certain the blade is sharp and is the right one for your work.
The saw is equipped with a guard, kickback pawls and a splitter. Be sure to use them.
Set the blade so it extends about 6 mm (Ml in.) above the stock to be cut.
Stand to one side of the operating blade and do not reach across it.
Maintain a 100 mm (4 in.) margin of safety. E.g. clamp a small piece of stock to a larger piece to cut safely.
Use feather boards to control cutting using the fence.
Stock should be surfaced (planed), with at least one edge jointed before being cut on the saw.
The position of the stock must be controlled either by the fence or the mitre gauge. NEVER CUT STOCK FREE HAND.
Use only new stock that is free of knots, splits, and warp.
Stop the saw before making adjustments to the fence or blade.
Do not let small scrap cuttings accumulate around the saw blade. Use a push stick to move them away.
Re-sawing and other special setups must be inspected by the Mentor or Session Leader before power is turned on.
Members helping to “tail-off” the saw should not push or pull on the stock but only support it.
The operator must control the feed and direction of the cut.
As you complete your work, turn off the machine and remain until the blade has stopped.
Clear the saw table and place waste cuttings in the scrap box.
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Be sure you have the Mentor or Session Leader’s permission to operate the machine.
Adjust the machine to the correct thickness of cut before turning on the power.
Stock should be at least 12 in. long, or several inches longer than the distance between the
centres of the feed rolls.
Surface only new lumber that is free of loose knots and serious defects.
Insert the wood to plane with the grain, or at a slight angle with the grain. Never attempt to
plane across grain.
Stand to one side of the work being fed through the machine.
Do not look into the throat of the planer while it is running.
Do not feed stock of different thicknesses side by side through the machine, unless it is
equipped with a sectional in-feed roll.
Handle and hold the stock only in an area beyond the ends of the table.
If the machine is not working properIy,shut off the power at once and inform the Mentor or
Session Leader.
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Before starting the machine, be sure that spindle work has the cup centre properly embedded, tailstock and tool rest securely clamped, and proper clearance for the rotating stock.
Before starting the machine for faceplate work, check to see that the faceplate is tight against the spindle shoulder and the tool support has proper clearance.
Wear goggles or a face shield to protect your eyes, especially when roughing out work. The lathe should have a guard.
Select turning speed carefully. Large diameters must be turned at the lowest speed.
Always use the lowest speed to rough out work.
Wood with knots and splits should not be turned. Glued-up stock should cure the proper amount of time — at least 24 hours.
Keep the tool rest close to the work.
Remove the tool rest for sanding and polishing operations.
Use a scraping cut for all faceplate finishing work.
Remove both the spur and cup centres from the head and tail stock when they are not in use.
When you stop the lathe to check your work, also check and lubricate the cup centre.
Keep the lathe tools sharp; hold them firmly and in the proper position.
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